WOW!!!! Those are awesome Fred! Done at sunset? Where were those done at?
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WOW!!!! Those are awesome Fred! Done at sunset? Where were those done at?
Actually it was done after dark
Shoreham Nuclear Power Plant (Abandoned)
Really? After dark? Wow, one of the shots looked like it had the last rays of sun shining in from behind the camera. Pretty cool.
How long were those exposures? 5 or 10 mins?
This is pretty far out east and your looking to the west towards western Suffolk, Nassau and NYC. You are seeing the light pollution in the distance.... If you ask me, the pollution looks especially nice last night!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derf
Is it the steel wool, or the residual glow of the nuclear plant? :biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Derf
I think I know where I would like to do some steel wool photos next time I'm down there for and have time.
Ontop of the Shelt Air fuel truck? Steve, I told you that we can not do this at the airport! lol
Rats! Lol
Last night....Rainy and passing Gibbs Pond in Nesconset, I found a reason to stop for a quick exposure (probably about 7-9 minutes).
http://www.longislandwallpapers.com/...esconset-L.jpg
I made a video Tutorial
What do you think???
Great tutorial Fred. Definitely got me thinking about going out and doing some more shots one of these nights.
I am a fan of any video with Fred!
Could you do a vid on site with a demo?
Fred, EXCELLENT tutorial... one comment I would make is to either add to or edit your video to explain about the stop steps on the camera. Most cameras these days have an adjustable stop step for each of the three exposure components. On a Nikon camera, typically the Advance Amateur and certainly the Pro cameras allow for 1/3 stop, 1/2 stop and 1 full stop increments setable INDEPENDENTLY on each of the aperture control, shutter speed control and sensitivity control (ISO). In your video, it looks liek your particular camera is either set to 1/3 stop increments (or it is burned in that way) for aperture and full stop (1) for ISO. Just so no one is confused why they don;t get the times you get or otherwise.
I think for things like night shooting, it is far easier to have your camera set to one full stop increments to make it mathematically easier to calculate halving or doubling of light by each click stop :cool:
You know Fred, you must do a 3D video using the flat rotation technique as in the closing shot of your tutorial. Those sparks coming to the camera would lend themselves perfectly to 3D. :wink: