DSLR Camera Settings – Part 1

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07-04-2007, 10:46 PM
shamrock838

DSLR Camera Settings – Part 1

Greeting,

Being ever on the lookout to improve my craft … here is a tally of current camera settings for my aging … but still faithful … Canon EOS D60 (to be replaced on active service in a matter of months) ...

I’d like to encourage your collective input on what might be changed … or left alone … to better realize the dual aims of improved : - (a) serious DSLR photography in general; and (b) aviation … photography in particular. Since your combined experience f-a-r exceeds mine … I’m open to any and all constructive suggestions. This is a multi-message thing.

Here’s my current setup:

Quality Selection: - Large/Fine … one less than RAW.
Recording Size: - 3072 x 2048.
Recording Method: - JPEG.
Compression Ratio: - Low.
Size of One Image: - 2.5 MB.

ISO Speed: - 200 (sometimes more when light conditions fade).
Processing Parameters (Contrast/Sharpness/Saturation/Color Tone): - Standard.
AF Mode: - One-Shot.
AF Point Selection: - Auto.

Metering Mode: - Evaluative … Partial … Center-Weighted.
[This is what I need to perfect … what mode to use consistently … plus when … and how … to compensate for situations where AE photography just falls short.]

[more to come]

Mike (shamrock838)
07-04-2007, 11:23 PM
nwafan20

ISO setting should be as low as it can get. Does the D60 go down to 100? If it is needed in low light situations, bump it, but try to keep it at the lowest setting or else noise develops.

AF Mode should probably be set to continuous shooting for aviation photography, with digital, you can take as many exposures as you want, just snap a bunch off and delete the worse ones, allows you the best chance for success.

Metering mode is not as important as the other settings, so I really don't change it much, i'm not quite the one to ask Lol.

Hope it helps!
07-04-2007, 11:50 PM
shamrock838

Part 2 of Original Post:

Greetings,

From where I left off in my previous post ...

Drive Mode: - Single-Frame Shooting.
White Balance: - Automatic.
Primary AE Mode: - P(rogram) … Tv … Av … M … A-DEP in that general order of preference.

Exposure Compensation: - + 1.0
[Even with this correction … many of my images are still underexposed. I’ve gotten into the practice of frequently checking the histogram of shots I’ve just taken but I still need to master this tool.]

Did I leave out any criteria …?

Miscellaneous Notes:

1. - I avoid flash whenever possible … preferring the natural ambiance of available light.

2. – With the conversion to IS lenses (see below) … I’m relying less on tripod/monopod support in the field.

My lens inventory at this time includes:
EF 24-105mm L IS
EF100-400mm L IS
EF 100mm (f/2.8) Macro (1:1)*
EF 65mm MP-E Macro (5:1)*
15-30mm Sigma

Mike (shamrock838)

* I also have the Canon Twin-Lite MT-24X Macro Flash. I hope to get back into macro work sometime soon.
07-04-2007, 11:54 PM
shamrock838

Quote:

Originally Posted by nwafan20

ISO setting should be as low as it can get. Does the D60 go down to 100? If it is needed in low light situations, bump it, but try to keep it at the lowest setting or else noise develops.

Hope it helps!

Yes ... the D60 starts at ISO 100 ... which I was using early on ... until I found it to be too slow for many picture needs. Perhaps I should try it again ... especially in bright day situations and ... as you say ... bump it up as needed. Thanks.

Mike (shamrock838)
07-04-2007, 11:55 PM
nwafan20

Thats the thing, your settings NEED to change depending on your situation. Not changing your ISO would be like leaving your shutter speed the same in every situation, it just doesn't work.
07-05-2007, 06:29 AM
NIKV69

Quote:

Thats the thing, your settings NEED to change depending on your situation. Not changing your ISO would be like leaving your shutter speed the same in every situation, it just doesn't work.

Good point.

A good starting point is to use the lowest ISO (considering your shooting in good conditions) Yes 100 can be a little slow but if you can hold the camera still the results are worth it. Set your white balance to sunlight and watch how your pics come out, if they need it you have to fine tune it a little. Blue casts are a dead giveaway. Put your camera in Aperture priority so the camera chooses the shutter. You should know what F stop your camera excels at. My old body loved F8 so I used to go to that a lot. In this day and age with PS where it is I would never shoot anything but Raw. It just gives you too much flexibility. You also have to learn exposure comp and how to use it. IMO when starting out you should avoid harsh sun that is too high because you will just blow everything out. Start with low sun directly behind you. You will not need any compensation. Learn the basics and when you can capture sharp well exposed shots in ideal conditions go from there. Also turn OFF all in camera stuff like sharpening etc. Do that in PS.
07-10-2007, 09:10 AM
madcatimages

Quote:

Originally Posted by NIKV69

. Set your white balance to sunlight and watch how your pics come out, if they need it you have to fine tune it a little. Blue casts are a dead giveaway.

This I why I shoot in RAW, no need to have the correct white balance setting. I was shooting in Jpeg one time and I had the white balance set for Tungsten (inside). The problem came in when I forgot to switch it back when I started shooting outside. In the end all my photos look like crap and there is no way to fix them. ( I was very unhappy with myself that day)
07-10-2007, 01:29 PM
NIKV69

Quote:

no need to have the correct white balance setting

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-...3/confused.gif

I disagree. Just because CS2 has some great features doesn't mean you just ignore getting the best capture possible. Way I was taught was start with the best capture possible and get the exposure, white balance, contrast and color right the first time. Then enhance. Sure if you need to fix the white balance on a shot it's great but don't just ignore it because PS can fix it.